Who Invented Surfing?

Surfing is one of the world’s oldest sports, and its origins are deeply rooted in the Pacific Islands, particularly in Polynesia and Hawaii. But who invented surfing? It’s not a simple story tied to one person. Instead, it’s a cultural practice passed down through generations, evolving over thousands of years.

"Surfing, it's like the mafia. Once you're in - you're in. There's no getting out."

Kelly Slater

Let’s break down the history of surfing, from its earliest days in Polynesia to its global spread.

---

Who invented surfing?

Polynesian Beginnings

The history of surfing starts in Polynesia. Early Polynesians didn’t just use the ocean for fishing and travel; they also played in it. Standing or lying on large wooden boards, they learned how to ride waves, using their knowledge of the ocean to navigate with skill.

Surfing, in its original form, wasn’t just a recreational activity. It was a way to demonstrate strength, agility, and connection to the sea. These early wave riders were testing their limits, mastering balance on boards carved from native trees. As Polynesians travelled across the Pacific, they took this skill with them, bringing surfing to islands like Tahiti, Samoa, and eventually Hawaii.

Surfing in Hawaii

Credit: WardVillage.com

Hawaii is where surfing became more than just a pastime—it turned into an art form and a cultural cornerstone. The Hawaiian word for surfing, heʻe nalu, means “wave sliding.” And for Hawaiians, it was much more than a sport. Surfing was tied to social status, religion, and tradition.

Hawaiian chiefs and royalty, known as aliʻi, had a special connection to surfing. They rode the biggest waves on long olo boards, which could be over 15 feet. Commoners, on the other hand, used smaller alaia boards, usually under 12 feet. The size and type of board you used depended on your rank in society. Surfing for the aliʻi wasn’t just a way to show off their skills—it was a display of power and authority.

Religious ceremonies often surrounded surfing, with offerings made to the gods to ensure good waves. Priests would also bless surfers before competitions or after dangerous rides. This shows that for ancient Hawaiians, surfing wasn’t just a hobby—it was deeply connected to their beliefs and lifestyle.

The Arrival of Westerners

The first known account of surfing by Westerners comes from the journals of Captain James Cook’s crew in 1778. When they landed in Hawaii, the British sailors were amazed to see Hawaiians riding waves for fun. This was something completely foreign to them. In their journals, they wrote about the excitement and skill of the surfers, describing how they “seemed to enjoy the greatest pleasure while being driven so fast and so smoothly by the sea.”

However, the arrival of Westerners also marked the beginning of a decline in traditional Hawaiian surfing culture. Missionaries and colonisers who came to Hawaii in the 19th century saw surfing as a sinful and idle activity. They discouraged it, along with other native traditions, leading to a significant drop in surfing’s popularity.

The Revival of Surfing

Credit: surfertoday.com

Despite the cultural suppression, surfing never fully disappeared. By the early 20th century, it was experiencing a revival, largely thanks to a few key figures. One of the most famous names in the history of surfing is Duke Kahanamoku, often called the "Father of Modern Surfing."

Duke was born in 1890 in Honolulu, Hawaii, and was not only a legendary waterman but also a five-time Olympic medallist in swimming. His love for the ocean and his mastery of wave riding made him a natural ambassador for the sport. In the 1910s and 1920s, Duke travelled the world, demonstrating surfing in places like Australia, New Zealand, and the U.S. mainland, specifically California. His exhibitions introduced surfing to people who had never seen anything like it before, sparking a new wave of interest in the sport.

With Duke at the forefront, surfing began to grow beyond Hawaii. What had once been a nearly forgotten Hawaiian practice was now gaining attention around the world.

The Evolution of the Surfboard

While the roots of surfing lie in Polynesia and Hawaii, the equipment used to ride waves has undergone dramatic changes. Early boards, as mentioned, were massive, heavy pieces of wood that required serious strength to control. Polynesians used local trees, like koa, to carve their boards, which could weigh up to 60 kilograms (over 130 pounds).

In the 20th century, surfboards went through a series of transformations, becoming lighter and easier to manoeuvre. The introduction of fibreglass and foam in the 1950s revolutionised surfing. These new materials made the boards more buoyant and responsive, allowing surfers to perform more technical and radical manoeuvres.

Shortboards, which became popular in the 1960s, further changed the game. Surfers could now tackle steeper, faster waves, and the entire style of surfing shifted. Tricks like the cutback, aerials, and other advanced moves became possible as boards shrank and surfers adapted their techniques.

The Global Surfing Phenomenon

As surf culture exploded in the mid-20th century, it spread across the world. The beaches of Southern California, Australia’s Gold Coast, and France’s southwest became hotspots for the emerging sport. Surfing wasn’t just about catching waves anymore—it was a lifestyle.

Movies like The Endless Summer (1966) and music from bands like The Beach Boys helped romanticise surfing as the ultimate expression of freedom, fun, and youth. Surfing was now not only a sport but also a cultural movement. Today, there are professional competitions, massive surf brands, and artificial wave pools. From Hawaii’s North Shore to Portugal’s Nazare, surfing has become a global sport with a deep and varied history.

Who Gets the Credit?

So, who invented surfing? While no single person can claim that title, it’s clear that the Polynesians, and especially the Hawaiians, developed surfing into the art form we know today. They passed down their knowledge and skills over generations, keeping surfing alive despite external pressures.

The spirit of those early surfers—their bravery, their connection to the ocean, and their joy in riding waves—remains at the heart of the sport. Every surfer, whether on a fibreglass shortboard or a wooden longboard, is tapping into the same energy that Polynesians harnessed centuries ago.

Final Thoughts

Surfing wasn’t invented in a single moment or by one person. It evolved through a rich tradition that began in the Pacific Islands, flourished in Hawaii, and eventually spread across the world. From ancient Polynesians riding heavy wooden boards to modern surfers carving through barrels on sleek, lightweight equipment, surfing has always been about the pure joy of riding waves.

Next time you’re paddling out into the lineup, remember that you’re part of a centuries-old practice, carried forward by the spirit of those who first learned to dance on the water

“The best wave of your life is still out there.”

Steve Hawk

We offer fully organised surf trips to top surf destinations around the world. From accommodation to expert local guides and surf lessons, we take care of all the details so you can focus on enjoying the waves.

Ready to plan your next surf adventure? Get in touch with us today!